Wednesday, November 20, 2013

Tea and Coffee Country - Coonoor

Holidays leave some lovely memories-replete with the sights and sounds of places one visited, of the impulsive things one did, of the local food one tried - soaking in the sense and feel of the place. But the ones which you remember most are the places where there was ease and you had a comfortable stay. Recently when I travelled down South to the tea country- Coonoor, I was looking for something that had an old world charm and was reminiscent of the colonial past. Wallwood Garden, a 19th century heritage hotel of Neemrana Group fitted the bill beautifully. It was a tea planter's bungalow which is now run as a boutique hotel (or a Non-Hotel as the group likes to call it) and is an ideal choice for experiencing the Nilgiris.

The property is located in the picturesque and peaceful environs of Upper Coonoor, a mere 5 minutes from the town's most visited spot, the Sim's Park. The bungalow is a relic of the British days and is truly vintage material with a fireplace too- the perfect thing on a cold wintry day.
The cottage is sweetly maintained and makes for a relaxed stay. The rooms are aesthetically done up in their trademark style of  Rajasthani furnishings complete with a four poster bed and Victorian two seaters, very charming and comfortable, just the place to snuggle up with a book and relax. The lawns are well kept (and have won some prizes too), the perfect place to enjoy your morning cuppa and savor some fresh mountain air. The dining room was a delight with its French windows which offered a lovely view of the greens outside. The wooden flooring in the lounge adds to the warmth of the place. It is away from the town's hustle and bustle and though located on the Kotagiri road, it has been able to maintain its serenity. Their food is very basic and nothing much to write about but since there were plenty of good eating options nearby it was no sweat.

Like any hill station, confectionary shops are plentiful here and we would invariably stroll down to Bedford market which was close by to try out the huge variety of cakes and cookies- Swiss rolls, chocolate cake, ginger biscuits and great tasting cookies. Baker's Junction, in this area, was another interesting shop, stacked with all possible eats- a real treasure trove for foodies. Craving a Chinese meal, there is the Dragon Chinese Restaurant near the market square which dishes out quite an edible fare for a small town. There is also the ubiquitous CCD (Cafe Coffee Day) - in the Bedford area which was surprisingly not drawing in crowds. I guess people here still prefer their good old filter coffee over any fancy stuff. I was missing my North Indian food by now so Quality Restaurant was our savior; they do a good lunch buffet which is very sumptuous. For South Indian food there are options aplenty (there is Shri Lakshmi in Lower Coonoor) and they all do a good job.

What stood out about Coonoor vis-a-vis other places up North was that it is relatively cleaner, people have a lot more civic sense and don't litter the streets. In the Nilgiris there is a ban on the use of plastics which is adhered to very religiously. Our eats would be very nicely wrapped in brown paper packets and it was good to see even the small shop keepers following the practice unlike up here in the North where such restrictions are openly flouted. The aam aadmi (common man) is far more conscientious about his work and seldom would you find people whiling away their time. Walking around, as a North Indian you do get curious but affable looks, this pleasantness is something which is clearly absent in Delhi city. 

 As a Delhiite I might have a lot of cribs about my city,  but my trip to the South has been quite an eye opener too, to the extent that it made me realize, that all told Delhi is still by far the best, and one of the most livable places in the country.





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